Testing a Minox 35GT

A few days ago I bought a Minox 35GT which was advertised locally for a reasonable price. The Minox 35 series of cameras is famous for being very small and for high quality optics producing fairly contrasty images. The internet has a lot of information about the different models as they were in production from 1974 to 2003 with a couple of million made. The most comprehensive source of information can be found at this link. Here I summarise some of that information, and compare it in some detail to three of my favourite small 35mm Olympus cameras, the XA, XA2 and mjuii. At the bottom of the post is a table comparing features between the four cameras.

While this camera was a good price, it was more than I would have preferred. It is increasingly rare to find the cameras I would like to try out in thrift stores, and generally it is getting more difficult to find any affordable cameras of quality as the better film cameras are steadily going up in price around here. I doubt that will last, but for now I had to fork out what I would normally pay for 5 or 6 point and shoot cameras – on the plus side is that none of those 5 or 6 would likely be a keeper while the Minox most definitely is.

With back light compensation

Minox 35 mm cameras have manual scale focus operated by a tiny but easily accessed ring on the outer edge of the lens with 8 distances marked between 0.9m and 10m as well as infinity; some versions are marked in feet only.  It has a viewfinder but sadly no range finder for focusing so you have to guess how far away your subject is, and the view finder gives no clues if you have it wrong. However, the top of the lens does have a depth of field scale so you can tell when you are on safe ground by using an aperture that gives sufficient depth of focus to cover the guesstimate errors.

The camera has an aperture priority exposure system with electronic shutter. Aperture can be set between f/2.8 and f/16 by rotating a ring against the camera body – this ring is fiddly to use and even harder to operate while looking through the view finder, though I find that with the tips of both index fingers I can rotate it while looking at shutter speed. Shutter speed is indicated inside the view finder which shows a range from 1/30 to 1/500th though longer exposures are possible and depend on the ISO. Apparently 10 (or even 30) second exposures are possible at ISO 25 and about 1 second at ISO 400 to 800. There is information on the web that suggests earlier models will set very much longer shutter speeds in low light, but this does not seem to be the case for the 35GT that I own. However, I will test this more when it is not loaded with film – if longer exposures are possible, I will edit this post.

Camera front, no case, drawbridge closed

All models have a drawbridge cover over the lens reminiscent of bellows units in old folding cameras. The drawbridge serves as a lens cover, and switches the camera off when closed, including locking the shutter button to prevent misfiring in the pocket. When the drawbridge is opened it pulls the small lens out of the camera body. It can be useful for shading the lens by turning the camera upside down to cast the drawbridge shadow across the lens in strong sunlight. EDIT: While running a second roll of film through the camera I have discovered that the drawbridge is also very handy as a rain shield for the lens, even with some wind.

Into sun, no lens shade

The viewfinder is bright and sufficiently large, and the frame lines are particularly bright compared to many other compact cameras. The exposure indicating needle is easily seen, though this requires a slight shift of the eye for glasses wearers like myself. The shutter release button is tiny and very sensitive to pressure so is almost too easily triggered, until one is used to it anyway. The shutter itself is barely audible, and the shutter release is locked when the front is closed.

Into sun, camera upside down so drawbridge shades lens

The battery compartment is also concealed by the drawbridge, being located next to the viewfinder on the front of the camera. The 5.8 volt mercury batteries are no longer available but the camera operates with 4 LR44 alkaline or SR44 silver oxide batteries taped together and even though these are in combination about 6.2 volts the exposures seem to be reasonably accurate. I would say that with this combination my camera looks like it is under-exposing a smidgen, though of course this could just be a tired meter and not the batteries. Once I get a better sense of under-exposure, if any, I can compensate by changing the ISO.

Open front, yellow button is shutter release, red diode is self timer indicator, knurled circle is battery compartment, openings on left surround of lens contain the light meters (one for viewfinder display, other for shutter speed), notched outer rim of lens turns for focal distance.

The drawbridge provides a very stable platform for holding the camera level and steady on a flat surface when you don’t have a tripod (and who carries a tripod with a camera this small?). Setting the camera down, composing and then using the self timer (10 seconds with flashing LED indicator in front of camera) will produce very satisfactory long exposures without the need for a tripod.

Near focus distance guess, not exactly right, ca f/2.8-f/4.

Film advance is manual, with a two-stroke lever. The indicator needle in the viewfinder for shutter speed, which also serves for a battery check, does not move unless the film has been advanced all the way. Film is loaded by releasing a lever on the bottom of the camera and sliding the back off the camera body. Film loading is simple, and the camera is so small that you should expect to get at least 26 exposures from a 24 exposure roll. The ISO dial is also on the bottom of the camera, as is the release for rewinding film and a tripod mount.

Bottom, from top of image are film release for rewind, tripod mount, ISO dial, case lock for opening back, bump to level camera with drawbridge open

The 35GT was introduced in 1981 and improvements on earlier models include the self timer, a back light compensation (+1EV) switch, along with other design changes like moving the cable release to its own socket. The ISO range remained 25-800 in earlier GT models like mine but later GTs include a 1600 ISO setting. There are limited methods for controlling exposure and the lack of a wide ISO range is the main reason. The back light compensation can be useful, but exposure manipulation via the ISO setting is limited, especially if shooting 400 or 800 film.

A lot is packed in the top: shutter release (yellow), cable release socket next to it, frame counter in white, red “2x” is backlight compensation button in the on position, red T is self timer (ca 10 seconds) in the on position, black button to its right is battery check, film wind lever lower right, rewind lever folded up on left, hot shoe for flash in middle.

The cameras have a hot shoe on top for a flash. A largish flash was made to fit with the camera (different models of flash will only work on particular models of the Minox 35) but this flash is as big as, or bigger, than the camera and really undermines the size advantage. This makes no difference to me since I almost never use flash, and in any case don’t have one for this camera.

Front view with bottom half of ever ready case, drawbridge closed.

The cameras have various cases available, including a very nice “ever ready” leather case that is formed to be a tight fit and keep the whole small. Mine only has the bottom half of the ever ready case, but that too is ok as it provides quite a lot of protection, does not fill my coat pocket and has strap lugs should I wish to hang the camera around my neck, or off a wrist.

Without backlight compensation

Filters are available, as is a lens hood; both slip on the outside of the lens. Without trying them I cannot tell if they would obscure the focus scale, but it sure seems likely, and they would have to be taken off when closing the drawbridge. The light meters (one to set the shutter speed and one to control the needle in the view finder) are beside the lens where the filters would cover them so correct exposures are obtained with filters in place.

With backlight compensation

The camera is said to expose with an emphasis on points of light and I saw this down at the beach as can be seen in the photos below. The back-light compensation may prove useful, and necessary, in such lighting situations.

Without back-light compensation


With back-light compensation


Camera back (Look at that grotty view finder! Due to excitement at having found this camera I jumped right into using it without my usual attention to cleaning it all first)


Camera back with back-light compensation and self timer both set to on (indicated by red).


The irises need putting to bed for the winter


And we need more wood in the shed

Since size is a main point of fame for the Minox series of cameras that are often claimed to be the smallest 35mm camera, it warrants comparison with some other small cameras that I own and really like using. The XA2 is pictured, but it has the same dimensions as its superior sibling the XA. You can see in the following photos that while the Minox is a tiny bit smaller than the Olympus XA/XA2 they are essentially the same size, closely followed by the Olympus mjuii (aka Stylus Epic).

L-R Minox 35GT, Olympus XA2, Olympus mjuii (Stylus Epic), Olympus mju (Stylus), Yashica T4


L-R Minox 35GT, Olympus XA2, Olympus mjuii (Stylus Epic), Olympus mju (Stylus), Yashica T4

The following picture substitutes the Pentax Espio 120SW for the Yashica T4 but it is quite a different camera with a zoom lens and many electronic controls – its optics are very good for a zoom but not up to the standards of the other cameras in these pictures. When the zoom is retracted it too fits in this size class, though a bit bigger than the XA and mjuii it is smaller than the mju and T4.

L-R Minox 35GT, Olympus XA2, Olympus mjuii (Stylus Epic), Olympus mju (Stylus), Pentax Espio 120SW

When claiming small size honours, one has to consider the drawbridge, which when opened means the camera is functionally larger than all the competitors with clam shell covers like the Olympus XA, XA2 and mjuii Stylus Epic.

All ready to shoot: L-R mjuii, XA2, 35GT


Back to back comparison of two closest in size, top view, pocket-ready. Left 35GT, Right XA2


Back to back comparison of two closest in size, top view, ready to shoot. Left 35GT, Right XA2


Front comparison of two closest in size. Left 35GT, Right XA2

In pocket mode the Minox is barely smaller than the XA and XA2 and not much smaller than the mjuii – all of these stay the same size when their clam-shells are open – so on balance they are functionally smaller than the Minox, except in the pocket. On top of that, the mjuii has a built-in flash, along with a number of other controls like a spot meter, autofocus and an ISO rating to 3200 which make it overall a more useful camera, though exposure is fully automatic so there is no way to control depth of field which is a distinct advantage of the Minox and the XA. The XA has a rangefinder for exact focus. The XA2 is zone focus without any exposure control (other than ISO). The ISO range is the same with the XA and XA2, but being able to focus through the viewfinder for the XA is a big plus for that camera and the size difference is negligible. The mjuii has lock focus (half press on shutter release) which allows focus control comparable to the XA. My experience suggests that there is little to choose between the Olympus and Minox optics. The XA (f2.8) and the XA2 (f3.5) are perhaps a bit sharper than the mjuii (f2.8), at least when wide open, but all are excellent optically. The Minox compares well to the XA and XA2, and possibly is optically a bit superior though I need to shoot it more to be sure. It does seem to produce more contrast in the photos, so it might be particularly good for black and white film. I have a roll of Ilford HP5 in the camera as I write so soon enough there will be examples of how it looks in black and white on these pages.

Below is a table comparing features of my favourite small cameras to the Minox. In terms of control the XA is probably the best camera, in terms of speed of use the XA2 is the fastest, and in terms of versatility the mjuii is the winner with built-in flash and fast film capability as well as autofocus and automatic film advance, however it is noisier than the other cameras and thus less suitable for candid photography. Even so, the Minox fits in well with these cameras – it is pocket-sized, has excellent optics and is fairly easy to use with sufficient controls. Definitely this is a camera that I will be continue to use and enjoy.

Feature Comparison for the four smallest cameras in my collection:

  Minox 35GT Olympus XA Olympus XA2 Olympus mjuii
L x W x H x Wt (less battery) 10×6.1×3.1cm x 190 gms 10.20×6.45×4.0cm x 225 gms 10.20×6.5×4.0cm x 200 gms 10.8×5.9×3.5 x 135 gms
Focal length 35 mm 35 mm 35 mm 35 mm
Filter thread No, push on filters and hood available No filters available No filters available No filters available
Aperture range f/2.8-16 f/2.8-22 f/3.5-14 f/2.8-11
Nearest focus 0.9m 0.85m 1.0m 0.35m
Focus type Zone, choose distance, DoF indicated Rangefinder Zone, three distance choices Autofocus with focus lock
Shutter speed range 1/500 to ~30sec (ISO25) or ~1 sec (ISO800) 1/500 – 10 seconds, all ISO 1/750 – 2 seconds, all ISO 1/1000 – 4 seconds
Shutter speed indicated? Yes, 1/500-1/30 and <1/30, in viewfinder, only when shutter cocked Yes, 1/500-1 sec, in viewfinder Long exposure indicator only, in viewfinder No, fully automatic. Flash fires in low light if not disabled.
Backlight Compensation 1 EV 1.5 EV No Spot meter available
Aperture Priority Yes, auto speed control Yes, auto speed control No, fully automatic No, fully automatic
Self Timer ~10 sec, red LED flashes on front camera ~12 sec, red LED flashes on front ~12 sec
Viewfinder 0.5x 0.55x 0.5x 0.45x
Flash External, hot shoe External, screws on External, screws on Built-in, 5 modes
ISO Range 25 – 800 (some models 1600) 25-800 DX coded: 50-3200; non-DX: 100 default
Battery Check Yes, with shutter cocked Yes, beep and LED, operable at any time Yes, operable at any time Yes, displays when camera on
Power Exact voltage batteries difficult to find, but 4xLR44 stack taped together works. Powered off when front closed. 2xLR44, powered off when clam shell closed 2xLR44, powered off when clam shell closed 1xCR123, powered off when clam shell closed
Film Transport Manual, lever, double stroke Thumb wheel, 360o Thumb wheel, 360o Auto wind and rewind
Front Cover Drawbridge, pulls lens out, protrudes and more than doubles thickness, covers lens, front of view finder, light meter, locks shutter release, turns camera off Clamshell, camera thickness unchanged, covers lens, front and rear viewfinder, light meter, locks shutter release, turns camera off Clamshell, camera thickness unchanged, covers lens, front and rear viewfinder, light meter, locks shutter release, turns camera off Clamshell, camera thickness unchanged, covers lens, front of viewfinder, light meter, locks shutter release, turns camera off









13 thoughts on “Testing a Minox 35GT

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  5. Nice to see it go to good use and being appreciated. Great revue as well I enjoyed very much reading it and checking the pictures. I also agree that having used the XA (with & without the dedicated flash unit) it is a very precise, easy to use and beautifully made camera and it would have to be my favourite as well. But when I saw that Minox out there i just had to pick it up. I also wanted that Nikon F3 so badly that they both had to come home with me. I just loaded a film into the F3 yesterday and will take her out for a spin this afternoon before I loose the light.


    • Hi Michel,

      Thanks for responding. It was a pleasure to meet you, and chat about cameras. I was glad to get my hands on the Minox and appreciate the price! It would be terrific to have a Nikon of the F3 caliber, but I don’t have the lenses to go with it, and can’t afford the bodies these days. I did have a F2A for a while, but not with a good lens and I swapped it for a good spotmeter. I regret that a bit, though the spotmeter is useful. And I have equivalent quality Canon EOS3 that will take my lenses I use on the the DSLR. I hope you have good shooting with the F3 – the light is really good this afternoon, especially compared to the last few days.


      • I ended going out to Sidney & Deep Cover area but only manage to shoot few frames and 2 of them were at home before leaving… By the time I got out it was overcast then so I didn’t get the higher contrast shots I would have an hour earlier… Oh well there’s plenty of occasions these days since I’m not working so I’ll get it done sooner or later… Can’t wait to see the results.


  6. Nice comparison. I always see Minox 35GT’s at antique stores, and they always want too much money for them. 🙂

    When I first started reading your post, I thought, “The Minox has got to be the lightest of them all.” I was surprised to see the Olympus mjuii weighed less.

    And the Yashica T4, is it overrated? What do you think?


    • Hi Shaun. Thanks! I haven’t seem them around at all, so don’t really know how they are priced. But I had heard about them a fair bit, and someone had recommended I look out for one as I would probably be happy with it. The mjuii is noticeably lighter in the hand, but the difference with the XAs is so trivial that I can’t tell the difference. I expect the mjuii battery is lighter weight than the Minox as well.

      I am not sure about the T4. The one I have has the too-common T4 shutter problem, except it is intermittent. It doesn’t fire (but does advance) every now and then, so I lose about 4 or 5 shots a roll. I’ve only put a couple of rolls through for that reason. But, the lens is very sharp. I am not sure though that it is significantly better, or any better, than for instance the Canon Sure Shot Max (or whatever name it comes under like this one: https://burntembers.com/2017/05/21/testing-a-canon-sure-shot-es-date/). Since the Yashica is known for shutter problems, I would be careful buying one (mine cost $10, and I did not know about the shutter problems until I encountered it). If the choice was a Yashica or one of the (considerably smaller) XA or mjuii, I would go for the Olympus. The XA2 though it has very fine optics and is really easy to shoot with, is more limited and usually quite a bit cheaper than the others, so the T4 might be a better option than an XA2 other than price. Though I do love the XA2 and use it a lot (way more than the XA which I find fiddly to focus). Not sure if that answers your question.


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